Rameshwaram

I have decided that I am really going to try hard to write about things that I've done or places I've gone relatively shortly after I return because it seems to the longer I wait the harder it becomes to remember. Duh, right? Well I guess I thought that because everything is so wonderful and exciting here I would never forget the details, but the reality is that when everyday is new and exciting and filled with new experiences, I often forget what I ate for breakfast that morning never mind how my travels went the week before.

I arrived back to Madurai Sunday afternoon after having spent a tremendous 36 hours in the southern city of Rameshwaram. Rameshwaram is located on the south-eastern coast of India only 20km from Sri Lanka. It is basically as far as you can go towards Sri Lanka without actually crossing the border. Along with Madurai is it also considered one of South India's most sacred places for Hindus to visit and make pilgrimage to. It is believed by Hindus that in this city the god Rama, an incarnation of Vishnu, worshiped Shiva in the Ramayana. The Ramanathaswamy Temple is known for its magnificent structure, long corridors and aesthetically carved pillars lining it.

I had been thinking about going to Rameshwaram for quite some time now and it just so happened that because of the new government in Tamil Nadu, I have two extra weeks of holiday time before school starts back up. Rather than just hanging around Madurai for two weeks I decided to take advantage of this time and do some more traveling around the south. Although it is possible to catch a bus to Rameshwaram, I have been in India nearly three months and still had not traveled by train! Unfortunately for me the trains to Rameshwaram run at rather inconvenient times, 6am and 9pm, so up I got at 5 am on Saturday morning to head to the station and get my first train ticket!

There was not too much to report about the train, it was pretty much well, just a train. It was probably a bit hot, crowded and smelly but I've grown to love that environment so these days I am finding it hard to notice. Easily the best part of the ride came after nearly three hours when we crossed the 2km long bridge from the main land of India to the island of Rameshwaram. It was really incredible. Since the only open water I have seen so far in India was in Mumbai and, let's face it, it's pretty nasty and polluted seeing the Bay of Bengal was absolutely breath taking. The sea was such incredible shades of blue and green with fishing boats littering the distance all throughout the coast.

After a nice four hour train ride I arrived in Rameshwaram and wandered through the city to make my way to the Hotel Tamil Nadu where I would be staying the night. As suggested by my Rough Guide, I made it clear that I was really interested in a room with a sea view and with a little persuasion, viola. It was absolutely worth the little extra energy. With a beautiful sit out attached and an excellent views of both the sea and the temple area the room would be ready in just one hour so I decided to go explore down by the water while I waited.

As you have probably gathered thus far, I love the water and any chance I have to be on it or in it I can always be counted on to take advantage of. This weekend was no different. Upon my first exploration of the seaside it was just my luck that I discovered a small business that gives short boat tours of the island coastline for only Rs50 (about $1). After settling into my new room and having a delicious spread of south Indian delicacies, I made my way down to the water to hop aboard the boat. A relaxing 45 minutes later we arrived back to shore and I was ready to explore what else Rameshwaram had to offer.

I was aware that the main temple in Rameshwaram would not open for another hour or two so I decided to go over to the temple bathing area in the bay and check some things out. As advised by my doctor before leaving for India I had no real intentions of bathing with the pilgrims but once again, it didn't take long before I was interested in hoping right in. Although I restrained myself just enough to prevent myself from going all the way in, I did make a point to "do as the Romans do" (as they say) and wash my feet in the sea before walking over to the temple.

As is true in most temples, only Hindus are allowed in the central and most sacred parts but with a little help from a local I was guided around the back to the area where the sacred baths are located. In all, there are 22 baths in the Ramanathaswamy Temple where pilgrims come to cleanse themselves of their sins each one supposedly tasting different due to naturally occurring minerals in the wells. Again, with the intention of only watching the cleansing the ceremonies and sneaking a few shots in here and there I believed I would be walking out of the temple nice and dry but again, I was wrong. It didn't take long before a local guide giving baths to a small group of young men approached me and asked if I would like to join. For only Rs100 I too could be cleansed. Unable to think of a good reason to say no, I said "sure, why not?".

Twenty-two baths later, I was cleansed. Before leaving I stopped to pay my Rs100 to my very nice guide who then suggested that if I had a very nice time I could pay more. Feeling a little conflicted and a bit broke, I decided that in fact, I did feel pretty wonderful and I had had an especially nice time so I gave him an extra Rs50 before heading down to the seaside to dry off.

Since wet clothes are not permitted in the worship area and no spare clothes to speak of, I headed back down to the seaside with the hops that the cool sea breeze and sunshine would dry me in no time. Acting as an attraction of my very own with every person walking by stopping to stare just for a second and children being encouraged by their parents to come and say hello to me, I sat and enjoyed the view while I waited to dry. Feeling a little guilty for not having gone right back to the temple to worship as I told my guide I would fate struck me head on. Walking directly towards me with two children at his side was the very guide who bathed me in the temple.

Recognizing me immediately and asking why I didn't go back to the temple, he asked me to meet him there after they went for a boat ride, he wanted me to come to his come and meet the rest of his family. As it turned out, that extra Rs50 gave my guide just enough extra from his daily pay to be able to take his two children for a boat ride that evening. Having live in Rameshwaram their whole lives, Vinoth and his family had never had a chance to ride the boat until that evening. Forty-five minutes later with two very excited children at his side we walked the short distance to his home to enjoy some tea and company with his wife and get to know his children. The excitement of having a foreigner in a locals home attracted nearly every child in the area to come and see for themselves.

Finally around 8:00 exhausted and quite hungry, I headed back to my hotel where I indulged in some more white rice and a spread of sauces and chutneys. Spending the remainder of the evening sitting out looking at the sea, the stars and even some fireworks being set off near the temple I reflected on the day. It was been like a dream; perfect in every way. After a short dream vacation, the next day I would head back to Madurai and prepare for my next adventure.